![]() ![]() Started with a nozzle test, next a head cleaning, and all the nozzles were perfect exept the cyan that didnt print at all, next more head cleanings. did in the last 2 weeks several head cleanings Since changing cartridges in my Epson 1500w 3 weeks ago, my cyan doenst print anymore, had a very weird looking photo. What size of tube do i need to flush the printhead? i got several sizes from a friend, but they are or too wide or not wide enough. Night and day in terms of turning the machine on and being able to confidently finish a print. A reminder that if you print sporadically and if you've lost Epsons due to clogging from no use, the Canon alternative should be given serious thought. The Canon Pro9500, Pro-10, Pro-1, and Pro-100 nozzle checks were all perfect requiring no head cleaning whatsoever. The R3000 needs a lot of babying compared to a P600.I saw this throughout the year. The 38 have always been good performers because of their pressurized ink system. The Pro3880 was perfect not one head cleaning was required. OTOH, my R2880 performed perfectly needing only one head cleaning. The R3000 is a lot more work relative to the P600 which is substantially more stable. ![]() Was worse in this low humidity.in a totally different color. ![]() My other brother/sister/LGBT ( for equality) to this machine the R3000. Just looking at it casually is not good enough. You need to read the EXACT positions of gaps. With Epsons, you need to have faith that your printhead is not a goner. Look carefully and this is where you need to look PRECISELY the position of the gap verus #4. Cyan is cleared but the Magenta now has a gap. Notice the pattern and the type of distortion that dried ink is flected and crooked steps. This winter the 20-25% humidity is causing some issues. Throughout 2016, I never had to a bad nozzle check off the P600 even with 4-6 weeks of no use. #1, it the first nozzle check after two weeks. Here's a real world example of nozzle check after 2 weeks of use in 20-25% relative humidity in a P600.
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